A lazy day on Arkos Island

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Our friend picks us up at the harbour in Skiathos. It is the right day to go out to sea, the temperature has reached 33 degrees. The boat moves swiftly and the wind feels refreshing in our faces. It takes us only ten minutes to reach Arkos Island, one of the small islands outside Skiathos.

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Arkos is an island of rock and stone, covered by green trees, an island with with a great sandy beach. No people live on this island but in the summer, a Skiathos family is running a taverna on the beach. High above on a rock, a Greek flag has been placed to remind us of where we are.

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This day, there are only a few people at Arkos. We find shade under some big rocks, place our bags, umbrella and beach towels there and move out into the water. The water is warm, clear, feels like silk. Finally, we get up again, letting the warm air dry our bodies in the shadow of the rock and then we move over to the taverna.

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This is one of those days when time means nothing. You stick your feet into the sand, sip your frappe, the cold Greek ice coffe, lazy talk with friends, looking out over the sea, and a few hours of your life can easily disappear without you noticing it. Eventually, hunger reminds us that we are sitting at a Greek taverna and we ask for the menu.
It is a family taverna, the mother is cooking. We order fried calamares, very fresh. Gavros, which is small, boneless, skinned Greek anchovy. Horiatiki, Greek salad. And the speciality of the place, fried, spicy hot feta cheese. Many Skiathians have goats up in the mountains and so does this family. The feta cheese is homemade and melts in your mouth. And of course we get bread, you always get bread with your meals in Greece. Everything washed down with beer and water.

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It takes an effort to get up from the taverna chairs and move back to our place at the rocks. The sun has moved and there is no more shade where we were sitting. Instead, we get into the water, the warm crystal clear water, and spend a long time there, maybe twenty minutes, maybe thirty, we don’t really know.

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Late in the afternoon, we reluctantly get into the boat for the ten minute return trip to Skiathos harbour.

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This has been another lazy day in Greece….

Another day in our life on a Greek island

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The boat is making good speed. It is warmer now, feels like real summer is finally here. On the top of the hills, we see Glossa, the second largest town on the island of Skopelos.
But Glossa is not where we are going today. Instead, the boat slowly moves in to the small harbour of Loutraki, the sleepy little beach village below Glossa. It has taken us twenty minutes since we left Sklithri beach on Skiathos, crossing the straight over to Skopelos.

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The sun is getting hotter, shining from a clear blue sky. A few cars are parked in the harbour of Loutraki but we see very few people. A taxi driver is sitting on a chair in the shade of a tree, hoping for us to take the ride up to Glossa where there are also some very nice tavernas. But not today. Today we are heading for Flisvos Taverna, a walk of 200 meters. “Welcome back!” Kostas is greeting us as we enter the taverna. We have not been here since last summer. We take a table next to the sea. Only one other table is taken in Flisvos this afternoon.

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We order, sharing everything. Saganaki, fried chees with honey. Filled peppers. Batatas. Bread of course, there is no Greek meal without bread. Fresh fried calamari. Very fresh mussels, just being picked up from the sea. Seafood pasta with large prawns and more mussels. And, of course, white house wine.

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We take our time. We are in no hurry. Time is unimportant on a Greek island. If you had asked me which weekday it is, I wouldn’t know. We eat and drink slowly, chatting, enjoying the food and the sea and the company. But finally, we ask for the bill. Kostas is bringing complimentary dessert, ice cream. And complimentary coffees.

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We are going back to Skiathos. The sea is calm. We see a few sailing boats. A ferry heading for Skopelos town. We see no dolphins today.  We take a detour, going into the harbour of Skiathos. We proceed to Sklithri. Emilio is serving his late lunch guests at the taverna on the beach. We sit down at a table, relaxing for a while before we walk up to our houses. The sun has started to go down over the hills in the west, casting long shadows.

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Another day in our life on a Greek island has gone by….